My Megu's Blog
Is Thioglycolate Safe in Lash Lifts? What the Research Really Says
Thioglycolate is one of the most trusted and widely used active ingredients in lash lifts, brow laminations, and hair perming — and for good reason. Research shows that thioglycolate works by predictably breaking and reforming disulfide bonds in keratin, allowing the hair to be reshaped safely and effectively. Decades of studies confirm thioglycolate’s excellent safety record when used properly, with minimal risk of long-term damage. It remains the gold standard in professional services thanks to its reliable performance and low allergenic potential. While overprocessing can lead to increased porosity and weakened hair, these risks are minimized under professional application and with proper aftercare. Compared to newer alternatives like cysteamine, thioglycolate is better studied, more predictable in its action, and backed by a much longer history of safe use. For clients and professionals alike, thioglycolate-based lash lifts remain a safe and effective choice when performed correctly.
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Can you get your lashes wet after a lash lift?
Can I Get My Lashes Wet After a Lash Lift? If you've ever had a lash lift—or scrolled through TikToks of artists rinsing lashes right after the service—you might’ve had that moment of confusion: Wait... I thought you’re not supposed to get them wet? Let’s clear it up once and for all, based on real chemistry—not lash myths. TLDR: Yes, you can get your lashes wet. However, be careful not to mess up the direction of the lashes in the first 24-48 hours. While water is okay, avoid steam (saunas, hot yoga, hot showers) for up to 48 hours after the lash lift service. Why Do Some Artists Say “Don’t Get Them Wet for 24–48 Hours”? You’ll hear a lot of lash artists tell their clients to avoid water for an entire day (sometimes two). But I personally only ask clients to wait four hours—and here’s the reason why. It all comes down to understanding what actually changes the shape of the lash. Water Alone Doesn’t Break the Curl In the chemistry section of my course, I explain that a lash lift works by breaking and reforming disulfide bonds, which give lashes their natural shape. These can only be changed using chemical reducing agents like thioglycolate or cysteamine. Water doesn’t have the ability to break these bonds. However, it does affect hydrogen bonds—a secondary, temporary bond in the lash. When hair gets wet, hydrogen bonds soften, which is why you can style head hair differently when it’s damp. The same goes for lashes. So, in short: cool water touching the lashes after a lift won’t drop the curl. But that doesn’t mean anything goes right away... Why I Still Say “Wait Four Hours” While water won’t chemically reverse the lash lift, I still recommend avoiding it for the first four hours—not because of bond disruption, but because of lash styling. Right after the lift, lashes are still being set into place. The product used at the end of the service (often called a coating essence) helps lock in direction and shape. If water hits too soon, especially if lashes are touched or rubbed, it can shift the styling—not the curl itself, but how the lashes sit. Steam vs. Water: What’s the Real Concern? Here’s where things get more serious: steam. Steam is different from water because it combines moisture and heat, and that heat speeds up absorption. Let’s break this down: During a lash lift, the cuticle layer of the lash is opened so product can penetrate. After the treatment, the cuticle begins to close, but it takes up to 72 hours to return to its natural state. While the cuticle is still partially open, the lash is more porous, and anything that penetrates—like steam—can cause swelling. Swelling means too much water gets inside the lash, disrupting the setting process. This can weaken the curl or even cause the lash to feel brittle or over-processed. What Happens to the Lash Cuticle After a Lift? Here’s a breakdown of the lash’s porosity: Before lift: Cuticle is about 5–10% open During step one (reduction): Cuticle opens up to 40–60% After step two (neutralization): Cuticle drops to 20–30% 72 hours after lift: Cuticle returns to 10–15%, back to a healthy state The takeaway? The lash is most vulnerable right after the service, especially during that 72-hour reformation window. Why Steam Is More Damaging Than Water Steam isn’t just hot air—it’s water in vapor form that carries a lot more energy than liquid water. When that vapor hits the warm surface of a lash, it condenses back into liquid quickly and deeply penetrates the still-porous cuticle. This combination of sudden heat and moisture can: ✧Disrupt the lash’s structural reformation ✧Soften the shape before it fully sets ✧Cause premature weakening of the curl So while a cool face splash or shower after a few hours is totally fine, hot showers, saunas, and steamy facials should be avoided for at least 48–72 hours. In summary:You can get your lashes wet after a lift, just not right away—and it’s not about water ruining your curl. It’s about giving your lashes time to set, allowing the cuticle to close, and avoiding steam that could cause swelling. Stick to cool water, skip the steam, and your lift will last beautifully.
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Why Hydration Matters After a Lash Lift (and Always)
Hydration is a critical part of lash lift aftercare. Just like skin, hair, and nails, lashes need moisture to stay flexible and healthy—especially after a chemical treatment. Dry lashes are brittle and more likely to break, while moisturized lashes can bend and withstand daily friction. Using a nourishing serum or Step 3 solution after a lash lift helps protect the hair structure, maintain your results, and prevent damage. Think of it as conditioner for your lashes: small effort, big difference.
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Is the Korean Lash Lift Method Beginner-Friendly?
The Korean lash lift method, also known as the glueless lash lift, is beginner-friendly despite being perceived as an advanced technique. Unlike traditional lash lifts that rely on adhesive, the Korean method focuses on controlled softening and visual cues to guide the process, making it more intuitive and less reliant on guesswork. For new lash artists with proper education and training, this technique offers a healthier, more precise approach to lash lifting.
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Can you wear mascara with a lash lift?
Can you wear mascara with a lash lift? How to wear mascara without damaging your lashes.
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About the Popular Korean Lash Lift Technique: A Healthier Technique for Lash Lifts
Learn more about the Korean Lash Lift technique and why it is a healthier alternative to traditional methods.
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Korean Lash Lift Frequently Asked Questions
Answering the most frequently asked questions about Korean Lash Lifts.
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