My Megu's Blog
Is Thioglycolate Safe in Lash Lifts? What the Research Really Says
Thioglycolate is one of the most trusted and widely used active ingredients in lash lifts, brow laminations, and hair perming — and for good reason. Research shows that thioglycolate works by predictably breaking and reforming disulfide bonds in keratin, allowing the hair to be reshaped safely and effectively. Decades of studies confirm thioglycolate’s excellent safety record when used properly, with minimal risk of long-term damage. It remains the gold standard in professional services thanks to its reliable performance and low allergenic potential. While overprocessing can lead to increased porosity and weakened hair, these risks are minimized under professional application and with proper aftercare. Compared to newer alternatives like cysteamine, thioglycolate is better studied, more predictable in its action, and backed by a much longer history of safe use. For clients and professionals alike, thioglycolate-based lash lifts remain a safe and effective choice when performed correctly.
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Can you get your lashes wet after a lash lift?
Can I Get My Lashes Wet After a Lash Lift? If you've ever had a lash lift—or scrolled through TikToks of artists rinsing lashes right after the service—you might’ve had that moment of confusion: Wait... I thought you’re not supposed to get them wet? Let’s clear it up once and for all, based on real chemistry—not lash myths. TLDR: Yes, you can get your lashes wet. However, be careful not to mess up the direction of the lashes in the first 24-48 hours. While water is okay, avoid steam (saunas, hot yoga, hot showers) for up to 48 hours after the lash lift service. Why Do Some Artists Say “Don’t Get Them Wet for 24–48 Hours”? You’ll hear a lot of lash artists tell their clients to avoid water for an entire day (sometimes two). But I personally only ask clients to wait four hours—and here’s the reason why. It all comes down to understanding what actually changes the shape of the lash. Water Alone Doesn’t Break the Curl In the chemistry section of my course, I explain that a lash lift works by breaking and reforming disulfide bonds, which give lashes their natural shape. These can only be changed using chemical reducing agents like thioglycolate or cysteamine. Water doesn’t have the ability to break these bonds. However, it does affect hydrogen bonds—a secondary, temporary bond in the lash. When hair gets wet, hydrogen bonds soften, which is why you can style head hair differently when it’s damp. The same goes for lashes. So, in short: cool water touching the lashes after a lift won’t drop the curl. But that doesn’t mean anything goes right away... Why I Still Say “Wait Four Hours” While water won’t chemically reverse the lash lift, I still recommend avoiding it for the first four hours—not because of bond disruption, but because of lash styling. Right after the lift, lashes are still being set into place. The product used at the end of the service (often called a coating essence) helps lock in direction and shape. If water hits too soon, especially if lashes are touched or rubbed, it can shift the styling—not the curl itself, but how the lashes sit. Steam vs. Water: What’s the Real Concern? Here’s where things get more serious: steam. Steam is different from water because it combines moisture and heat, and that heat speeds up absorption. Let’s break this down: During a lash lift, the cuticle layer of the lash is opened so product can penetrate. After the treatment, the cuticle begins to close, but it takes up to 72 hours to return to its natural state. While the cuticle is still partially open, the lash is more porous, and anything that penetrates—like steam—can cause swelling. Swelling means too much water gets inside the lash, disrupting the setting process. This can weaken the curl or even cause the lash to feel brittle or over-processed. What Happens to the Lash Cuticle After a Lift? Here’s a breakdown of the lash’s porosity: Before lift: Cuticle is about 5–10% open During step one (reduction): Cuticle opens up to 40–60% After step two (neutralization): Cuticle drops to 20–30% 72 hours after lift: Cuticle returns to 10–15%, back to a healthy state The takeaway? The lash is most vulnerable right after the service, especially during that 72-hour reformation window. Why Steam Is More Damaging Than Water Steam isn’t just hot air—it’s water in vapor form that carries a lot more energy than liquid water. When that vapor hits the warm surface of a lash, it condenses back into liquid quickly and deeply penetrates the still-porous cuticle. This combination of sudden heat and moisture can: ✧Disrupt the lash’s structural reformation ✧Soften the shape before it fully sets ✧Cause premature weakening of the curl So while a cool face splash or shower after a few hours is totally fine, hot showers, saunas, and steamy facials should be avoided for at least 48–72 hours. In summary:You can get your lashes wet after a lift, just not right away—and it’s not about water ruining your curl. It’s about giving your lashes time to set, allowing the cuticle to close, and avoiding steam that could cause swelling. Stick to cool water, skip the steam, and your lift will last beautifully.
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Why Hydration Matters After a Lash Lift (and Always)
Hydration is a critical part of lash lift aftercare. Just like skin, hair, and nails, lashes need moisture to stay flexible and healthy—especially after a chemical treatment. Dry lashes are brittle and more likely to break, while moisturized lashes can bend and withstand daily friction. Using a nourishing serum or Step 3 solution after a lash lift helps protect the hair structure, maintain your results, and prevent damage. Think of it as conditioner for your lashes: small effort, big difference.
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Is the Korean Lash Lift Method Beginner-Friendly?
The Korean lash lift method, also known as the glueless lash lift, is beginner-friendly despite being perceived as an advanced technique. Unlike traditional lash lifts that rely on adhesive, the Korean method focuses on controlled softening and visual cues to guide the process, making it more intuitive and less reliant on guesswork. For new lash artists with proper education and training, this technique offers a healthier, more precise approach to lash lifting.
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Can you wear mascara with a lash lift?
Can you wear mascara with a lash lift? How to wear mascara without damaging your lashes.
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About the Popular Korean Lash Lift Technique: A Healthier Technique for Lash Lifts
Learn more about the Korean Lash Lift technique and why it is a healthier alternative to traditional methods.
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Korean Lash Lift Frequently Asked Questions
Answering the most frequently asked questions about Korean Lash Lifts.
Learn moreTips on Lashing Faster
Shedding time off of your appointments has immense benefits. Your client walks out the door happier, you work less, or you can squeeze in more appointments in your day (hence- more money in your pocket). However, you shouldn’t sacrifice the quality of your work to go home early. Do not listen to artists who tell you not to lash 100% of their natural lashes, skimp on skinny bases, or skip the prep routine. Instead, you should implement practices and habits that increase your focus so you aren’t wasting time during the appointment. Here are the four tips at a glance: 1. Have a speedy (but thorough) consultation system 2. Quality materials and tools that work with you 3. Have two pairs of tweezers on deck 4. Play lofi/jazz/instrumentals ✦ . ⁺ . ✦ . ⁺ . ✦ 1. Quality materials and tools that work with you …rather than against you. I wouldn’t opt for the cheapest supplies on the market. Your lash extensions should come off the strip easily (without leaving behind stragglers) and fan easily (with no sticky or boxy bases). Try our mink and cashmere collection. As for your tweezers, your volume tweezer should be clean (without glue residue) and have gorilla grip (no straggling lashes on the strip). Your isolation tweezer should help your ergomically isolate the entire lash line– from dense inner corners to problematic baby lashes. I recommend Mish Esthetics’s Milf Tweezer Duo. The MILF volume tweezer never fails to have amazing grip, and I love how she crafts her curved isolation tweezer. You would be surprised to find out that when you’re struggling to make fans, it isn’t you, it’s your tools. 2. Having two pairs of tweezers on deck I used to despise artists who have multiple tweezers in all the different colors. I try to be conscious of my consumption, and having multiple pairs doesn’t make sense to me. However, I have recently made an exception to have a perfect set of two volume and isolation tweezers. Having two pairs helps immensely when taking clients back to back. Once your previous client walks out the door, put the pair of tweezers you were currently using into barbicide and you can immediately start working on your next client with your pre-disinfected other pair of tweezers. This way, you won’t have to worry about waiting ten minutes to use the same pair of tweezers again. 3. Have a speedy (but thorough) consultation system A proper consultation can take up to 15 minutes if you don’t know how to execute it or when your client is indecisive. However, I use a consultation form that is a part of the client intake form. It gives them a clear guide to understanding what they want to achieve with their lash appointment. The form includes questions such as whether they normally wear falsies or mascara if they like the set more wispy or uniform, and other similar questions that give you a gauge of what they want. This form also includes a page where you can circle their features (downturned vs. upturned, close-set vs. wide-set, etc.)– ensuring you don’t miss a step and the consultation process will be fast, efficient, and smooth. Later in the appointment while their lashes are drying, I write down the map I used in the same form so I won’t have to play guessing games when she comes back for a fill. Try the consultation system here and use the discount code “BLOG” for 15% off. 4. Play lofi/jazz/instrumentals Playing calm music with my clients has so many benefits. It helps me concentrate on intentional lashing, encourages the client to relax and sleep, and stops me from worrying about skipping tracks that don’t fit the vibe. This speeds time up by increasing my concentration and limits conversation between you and the client. My clients and I have dedicated time to catch up, but in many cases, their lash appointment is the only time they have to relax. It is easier for them to wind down to calming beats than upbeat music. (side story: when I do play my non-instrumental music, I love my sad girl anthems. however, while jamming to Niki’s Nicole or Gracie Abrams, my client told me how she was going through a breakup. I had to awkwardly queue nonbreakup songs so she doesn’t go simp in her head… LOL). Here are some of my favorite playlists on Spotify: Ghibli Sleep, Sunny Day Jazz, and Lofi Summer Haze. These small changes to your appointment routines can shed a surprising amount of time from your appointments. Let me know in the comments if these work for you ⸜(｡˃ ᵕ ˂ )⸝♡
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